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Permanent waves i.e. perm (in short) changes the hair from straight to wavy. They are created by breaking the cross bonds of hydrogen and cystine or sulphur bonds. When the hair takes itsnew shape, the bonds must be re-established for the curls to be permanent. The classic permanent wave solution of ‘cold wave’ lotion generally consists of thioglycolic acid plus ammonia.

When the hair is wrapped on the rod, this solution is applied. A certain amount of time is required for the hair to take on the shape and size of the rod. This is called the ‘processing time’. The stylist must be able to determine how much time is needed to achieve the type of curl desired, otherwise the hair can be over-processed, resulting in too curly or frizzy hair. Once the hair is ‘processed’, the stylist applies a neutraliser while the hair is still on the rods. The neutraliser provides a dual chemical action, neutralising and oxidising, which results in the hair staying curled. After all the neutraliser penetrates the hair, it is carefully unwrapped and rinsed thoroughly with water.

There are two basic types of perms: the acidic and the alkaline. Acid perms have the most gentle formula. They     produce soft, natural, yet long lasting curls on non-resistant hair. Alkaline perms, also called ‘cold waves’, have more strength and produce firmer, more resilient curl when used on resistant or hard-to-curl hair types. Exothermic perms are alkaline perms that have heat activators, which provide more snap to the curl. New perm technology is producing almost damage-free perms that are ammonia-free and lower in thioglycolic acid. These new perms result in beautiful springy curls.

A reverse perm is actually the process of taking the curls out of the hair. It can be used to change a naturally tight curl to a looser curl or to straighten the hair.

A spiral perm means that shoulder length or longer hair is rolled on the perm rod vertically, resulting in a corkscrew type of curl. Spiral perms can also be used to crease an explosion of curls. For a traditional perm, the hair is rolled horizontally.

A root perm is used only at the root area of the hair. It is used to perm new growth on the hair that has been previously permed or to add extra lift at the root area. The previously permed ends are protected with products to prevent the waving lotion from penetrating the ends.

Home perms are usually milder formulas that take longer to process. Professional perms have the advantage of the most current technology and the experience of a stylist.